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Šibenik.

  • Writer: Maria Neves
    Maria Neves
  • Oct 28, 2022
  • 5 min read

Hey guys, I am so tired! Somehow last night I woke up at 2:30 am and (it must have been between sleep cycles because) I didn't manage to fall back asleep, and I had this shocking willingness to work on my dissertation - which, by the way, was totally productive! Anyhow, after a long black coffee, I am ready to tell you about the second destination of my solo trip: Šibenik!

From the moment I stepped into the uber at Zadar's airport and started chatting with my driver, I realized he was still very much traumatized by the invasions Croatia has endured over the years; the same was possible to glimpse at the people of Šibenik. A small city of monumental beauty.

It was one of Croatia's most competitive targets... although surprisingly well protected by its four fortresses! One of which was recently added as part of UNESCO-protected property and where (apparently) a relevant gate in Game of Thrones was shot! But St. Nicholas Fortress is not the only UNESCO world heritage site in this small-sized place, there's also the gorgeous renaissance St. James Cathedral which I could admire from my hostel - so so beautiful!

Now, history aside, my stay! On the first day, I went on that free tour with my American bunkbed-mate. Our guide was quite knowledgeable and I feel like I learned a lot from her!

Later, whilst I waited for the boat to a nearby beach, I met a man. He must have been in his 60s (even 70s). The biggest flirt I've seen in my whole life! He was working at one of those tourist boat stands, next to other sellers. Always respectful, he asked me whether I wanted to seat with him (and another lady, in the stand next to his) in the shadow. Instantly said yes! There were like 30 degrees outside, I still had about half an hour wait and the sun was unbearable!

He mentioned the invasions; the trauma; the history of Split (my next stop), and impressively managed to maintain a conspicuous flirt both with me and the young girl on the other side of the road - "coronia" he called her, as she had just had covid (so flattering). Several laughs later, a fellowship was born only to hear him shout "my beautiful, my beautiful" once I stepped out of the returning boat a few hours later 😝 I could not believe that was happening, it was so funny!

At night, I went to an international student film festival with a couple of new friends I met in the hostel. Daniel, the German cyclist, and Finn, the Aussie twin. Both had such an interesting journey and I was glad our travels interlaced. On the next day (my last day), the American girl, the Aussie boy, and I were en route to Krka National Park - a must if you are in the area.

We were supposed to take a 3€ bus, but everyone knows the best way to go is by sea. So after meeting a Swedish girl at coffee that morning, she told us she was going by boat at 9 am for about 45€ (go & return + the park tickets - which were around 20€ ). It sounded like a pretty good deal to me! Hence, before 9 am we were walking to the docks to check whether they still had three extra spaces for us! No luck with that, but guess which stand was she buying her ticket from?

My beautiful. There he was, again - and his boss, a real Croatian businesswoman. She made us an offer: go by speedboat and return by mini-van at a chosen time for 100€ - between that and the bus for a 15min trip, it was not a hard pick. I said no. So, she prompted: the same for 45€ if the Swedish girl came along, plus coupons for free lunch? Don't ask me how or why she did that, but damn right we accepted! That was the first of three boats that day and one of the two that magically seemed to be handed to me/us.

Getting on the last boat was even more unbelievable. We were already at the NP. Stunning landscapes. Amazing natural waterfalls. And once you are there, you might as well check out the little island in the middle, where there's a church and a museum about the area. Problem was, everyone was doing it and I needed to be back for my Flixbus by 6 pm. It was 3 pm and the next possible ride was at 4:15 pm - I wouldn't make it back in time.

Luckily, there were still 3 seats left on the 3:15 pm boat! Not so luckily, we were four - and no way we were separating. In fact, we were such a random bunch of solo travelers who couldn't be more different from each other, but we connected so well!

I tried my luck and begged for it; I argued some of the tickets could be for children who could seat in their parent's laps. Nonetheless, the salesman was quite clear: "Never in [his] career, have [he] broken the rules", he said firmly. Quite disappointed, we walked to the side discussing what to do for the next couple of hours... And yet, I don't know whether it was the fact that I was only there once, or the desperate urge to feel a boaty breeze on that hot summer day... but I went up to him again! You knew I would.

He kept solid; inflexible. But I remember holding on for a few more seconds, and when I noticed he was on the phone with the captain and instants later, we were buying the three last tickets plus a clandestine one for which I had to hand the money to the captain himself, along with a paper from the salesman. We made it to the island, and back in time! I still don't know how that worked out, but bless him, he gave in hahaha What a memorable way to say goodbye to this place!

What a memorable group of people too. I think that was the most joyful day of my trip, just because it was enthusiastic and genuine, and I love that I can carry this memory with me and relive it one day when I go back to Šibenik.

This last picture was taken on the night I arrived. I couldn't wait to go for a swim, so I went with this couple (who were not an actual couple, anymore, but still meet occasionally ihih), a German girl and a Marroccian guy. Šibenik looks so magnificent from afar! Shiny ✨

All the best,

M.

 
 
 

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